“There’s not one single thing out there that I would not wear myself,” she explained backstage. “I always design what I want to wear, and I want to wear more than a dress.” With this in mind, she introduced separates, including crisp white cotton blouses (often with geometrically pieced eyelet and lace elements), flirty short skirts, and deftly cut pants, seemed like her signature second-skin dresses, that reflect the mantra of a designer who is always very much in the camera’s sights: “Everything’s got to look good from every angle.”
Beckham opened the show with lean, bias-cut midi skirts, worn with poet’s shirts or camisole tops that signaled the lingerie theme weaving through the collection. Paired with Stephen Jones’ slouchy black felt scarecrow hats, and mannish flats designed with Manolo Blahnik, they signaled a refreshing new direction for the designer. Those celebrated Beckham dresses made an appearance, but were softened this season with bodices in translucent fine knits veiling structured brassieres beneath, or with delicate camisole straps and lace trim.
Front-row guest Maria Sharapova admired the trim little tennis dresses and skirts that were either cut A-line stiff, or combined various textural elements, such as cotton canvas, those graphic laces, and pleated chiffon flounces. The new geometric broderie anglaise cottons reflected the perforated trend of the season, with its discreet revelations of the body beneath, and were subtly mirrored in the honeycomb belts and open-work satchel bags. And the lingerie details brought a thoughtful modern edge to the chic Beckham sheath.
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